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simply used brute force (in warmer weather, mind you). With just my fingers, I pried up at the extreme point of the spoiler and smoothly but forcefully pulled upward, working my way around. I think there are six total clips that either pull out, break away, or break in half - plus three globs of butyl rubber closer to the middle. If you search around, you'll see examples of the more surgical (piano wire) method. Here's a post of mine from when I pulled it:
La-Z-Link On mine, a there was a very little amount of the hatch sheet metal pulling up, but that's going to be covered by the new OEM replica spoiler anyway, so I didn't mind. Installing a pedestal TT spoiler on an earlier-style hatch will leave you with holes to fill and holes to drill - they don't match up. I think if you're set on the pedestal spoiler, you'll be better off installing it on the NA hatch. I'm not 100% sure, but I believe the TT hatch will accept the NA 3rd brake trim piece - you may need others to verify, but there's a recess there that follows the "extended" profile of the taillights. I suspect the hatches were all stamped/formed the same, then had holes drilled as spec'd. I prefer the early style OEM flush spoiler as opposed to the 94+ pedestal, but that's just me. My plan is to get a fiberglass OEM replica either from Powertrix or Z1 (either are allegedly very good and fit up just like OEM). To not have the taillight cutoff to which you refer, I'll either buy the trim decal for the spoiler (Z1, again... same as OEM) or just paint it in. I'm not there yet. Right now, I'm rockin' it ghetto-fab with nylon plugs w/ silicone in the holes and white gorilla tape over the 3rd brake light slot. At least I can't see it when I'm driving!
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18:00:57 03/27/19
